
5 Lawn Mower Storage Mistakes EXPOSED
Posted November 5, 2013 by T A 79 CommentsDo you want your old trusty mower to start back up in the spring, after several months in hibernation? Then properly preparing it for winter storage is crucial.
Otherwise, you might as well throw a new mower on your Christmas list, and hope Santa won’t charge you for delivery after making these naughty mistakes.
Here are 5 common mistakes to avoid this year when storing your lawn mower, tractor, or zero turn for winter.
1.) NOT Removing Old Fuel from the Gas Tank
Leaving untreated fuel in your gas tank during winter is practically a death sentence for your lawn mower’s fuel system. The gas will begin to go stale, corrode, and form gummy deposits in the fuel tank, carburetor, fuel lines, and fuel filter. So, your safest bet for long-term storage (more than 90 days) is to use or remove all fuel in your mower.
2.) NOT Draining the Carburetor Fuel Bowl
You’ve done a good deed by running the fuel tank dry, but a small amount of fuel may still remain in the carburetor fuel bowl. Get that gas out! Drain the fuel bowl so the gas won’t deteriorate, gum-up, and damage your carburetor.
3.) NOT Disconnecting the Battery
Even with the machine off, a small amount of juice can still be sucked from the connected battery on your riding mower and zero turn. This is often referred to as Vampire Power (Standby Power). When storing your equipment for long periods of time, disconnect the battery and store it in a cool, dry place. It will help decrease the rate of the battery’s discharge.
*Important Tip: Recharge batteries once a month to keep the juices flowing.
4.) NOT Changing the Oil
So why would you want to change the oil before storage? First of all, old used oil contains contaminants that you definitely don’t want sitting in your engine for three or more months. Secondly, it also gives you a head start on next spring’s tune-up, ensuring your engine is properly lubricated from the start.
5.) NOT Reading the Owner’s Manual
Before you start to prep your mower for winter storage, read the owner’s manual. Most manual’s provide instructions on the proper way to store your specific equipment for long periods of time. It might even recommend replacing the air filter and spark plug too, while you’re at it.
79 Comments
Scott P. Blondell
on November 5, 2013 at 3:13 pmI’ve always been a proponent of removing the sparkplug, squirting a small amount of new oil into the cylinder(s) and slowly rotating the crankshaft to distribute it. Replace the plug(s) when finished, of course. No telling what may crawl in there!
Removing the blades for a rainy day sharpening is on my list, too. At the rate grass grows in the spring there’s never enough time to get these tasks done, so using the cold days of winter to get ahead just makes good sense.
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Turner Anderson
on November 5, 2013 at 6:37 pmGreat tips Scott! Thanks for sharing.
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Glen Spears
on November 5, 2013 at 3:41 pmGood idea to let all the grass cutting experts know.
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Jack
on November 5, 2013 at 4:01 pmWhat do you think about Sea Foamfuel additive?
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Turner Anderson
on November 5, 2013 at 6:44 pmSea Foam is a good additive to use, especially when it’s getting close to storage time. Add it to fresh gas and run it through your equipment to help clean out all the internal engine parts and fuel system components.
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Robert Munden (MASTER TEC.
on November 8, 2013 at 9:33 pmSea Foam is very good fuel additive.but it also is very good crank case additive added to oil and run before changing oil.it is also a excellent carbon remover.but the best fuel treatment/stabilizer is the Briggs & Stratton Fuel Treatment Advanced Formula Fuel Treatment & Stabilizer.
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Robert Munden (MASTER TEC.
on November 8, 2013 at 9:51 pmJacks price is $11.97 on the 16 oz.
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Herman
on October 24, 2015 at 5:17 pmI have used the B&S treatment.. works fine.. on riding mower, my biggest problem is the person who puts extra stuff in the gas tank. a friend mows lots as a hobby and his helper loves to play games..
fuel filters definitely work to save the carburetor from death…
Herman
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Herman
on November 8, 2016 at 12:04 pmI am another Herman… I agree completely with the B&S fuel additive and fuel filters.. my friend mows lots mostly to keep active.. he gets helpers who manage to get all kinds of things into the tank..
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Frank S
on November 22, 2019 at 1:06 pmI always tell everyone I know, NEVER use ethanol gas in any of my equipment. I spend the extra money for non ethanol and put Staybil or any good stabilizer
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Mr. Jim
on November 5, 2013 at 4:12 pmRather than disconnecting the battery on my riding mower, I keep it connected to a “Battery Tender” (TM) all year long. This maintains a continuous charge always. Same for my motorcycle, of course.
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colin mcintyre mowers nsw australia
on November 5, 2013 at 5:36 pmhow true that is Turner try and tell people especially the farmers here they won’t listen so next thing they are up for &100s for a new carbie oh well we benefit from it
reg / Colin
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Chuck Segert
on November 5, 2013 at 5:43 pmOkay for you snow country guys. I’m in central Florida and we never quit mowing. Maybe slow down to once a month from once every five days in the summer. Let’s give a great big je cheer for ethynol. Ugh
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Murray Dixon
on November 11, 2015 at 11:34 pmi would have to buy a rider,lol
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Cuba
on November 8, 2016 at 6:32 pmYes! Totally have the same sentiments you do in regards to the ethanol. The damage it does on vehicles too…. what a gimmick!?! It costs more to make the ethanol than sticking to petrol 100%. Ethanol, good for the environment, my behind! Lol.
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Maurice "Moe" Yoder
on November 11, 2017 at 11:17 amSo good, that Alaska banned it because if all the air inversions there, it was making people sick. Banning it solved the sickness problem. I agree with you on the ethanol.
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Mark Besmen
on November 5, 2013 at 6:24 pmAlso when storing your single cylinder yard/lawn equipment over the winter pull them to top dead center of the compresson stroke. That keeps the valves closed to help prevent valve seat rusting.
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Scott
on November 5, 2013 at 6:44 pmI always make sure I use ethanol free gas in last tank of the year too . I know I should do it all year, but especially important at end of you in my opinion. I also make sure last tanks gotten a dose of stabile because even if you run tank dry and empty carb, that treated gas residual will then gum up less.
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Tommy
on November 12, 2013 at 10:00 amNice thought—ethanol free gas. Where do you get this in states like Massachusetts?
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Rodney Marsh
on November 18, 2013 at 10:06 amHi Tommy, If you go to pure-gas.org there is a listing of states and the gas stations that still sell ethanol free gas.
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Richard
on November 13, 2014 at 1:27 pmI am sure you have Marinas in your area somewhere. In our area none of the Marinas have ethanol in their fuel intended for inboard or outboard motors.
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George
on November 8, 2016 at 11:33 amNot sure about Massachusetts but if you are near NO state some Cumberland Farms locations sell non-ethanol gasoline.
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Dave
on November 22, 2019 at 8:09 pmHome Depot now carries it for 2 and 4 stroke. My large local equipment seller in Massachusetts once took me aside and said most of his service business would go away if people just used this in their last tank of the season. I used in on my lawnmower for the first time last year and this year it’s started better than ever and on one pull!
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Cuba
on November 8, 2016 at 6:34 pmI wish we had affordable ethanol free gas around here…. Philly suburbs. It’s almost 3 times the amount. If had that around here, I’d only use that on my vehicles too.
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Grandpop
on November 5, 2013 at 7:44 pmI usually run a fuel additive about one month before my last mowing. Then run everything dry. My exmark I top off, then shut off the fuel and run the carb empty. So far everything starts in the spring. Leaving gas in any small piece of equipment over the winter is a disaster.
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Leroy free
on November 6, 2013 at 6:43 amif i store my battery for the winter from my riding mower or motorcycle i store them at the bottom of my second refig.
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Murray Dixon
on November 11, 2015 at 11:32 pmLawn mower batteries are so cheap, I just buy a new one every two years and never have to get out the booster cables!
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ElliotH
on November 6, 2013 at 7:34 pmNext weekend I will be following your great tips
Thank You
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Robert Meany
on November 8, 2013 at 7:14 pmI drain the oil from my lawn mower by openining the fill cap and and tipping the mower sideways into an aluminum pan and plce the whole pan into a plastic bucket and pu a lid on it and dispose of the whole bucket at the recycling center. When I cange the oil I never open the plug underneath the deck which can cause problems of stripping the threads or if the plug is intruding it sink into the plug hole and is diffcult to remove and damage the internal engine parts.
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Dwight May
on November 8, 2013 at 10:25 pmAll great ideas, I go one step further, after empting the tank, I run the engine until just before it stops, ( If it has a manual choke) pull it out until the engine stalls.
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jim
on November 9, 2013 at 12:27 amI don’t do anything run the gas out come spring new plug change oin new gas and filter and away it goes
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steve santos
on November 9, 2013 at 8:19 amVery good points. I always followed all with the exception of changing oil. Living in New England this makes sense and I will do this, this year. Thanks for the tips!
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Ed Vanderloon
on November 9, 2013 at 9:28 amI paid dearly this year! Because I left the old untreated gas in my 5 year old Honda mower it ruined the carb beyond repair. I had to pony up for a new mower! I will be draining my gas this year!
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John from Alaska
on November 11, 2017 at 6:09 pmYou could have purchased a carburetor rebuild kit , or a new carburetor and saved big $$$. I wish somebody would give me 5 year old Honda.
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jeff linne
on November 10, 2013 at 9:23 pmi use stabil fuel additive and only ethanol free gasoline i also put a little carburator and injector cleaner with the gas and have very little problems with storage or starting
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Tom Shick
on November 23, 2017 at 11:04 amStabil is all I do to all my equipment. I have mowers and tractors from the 50’s 70’s 80’s 90’s and also newer stuff. I have used stabil for many many years and never have a problem. Stabil and a full tank of fuel before storing. Also use it in 2 cycle stuff
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Steve La Duke
on November 26, 2013 at 3:21 pmAlbert Barrett:
I bought a 6 horse Techumseh for my wood splitter 25 years ago and used it without any carb problems until about 20 years when ethanol was going into production into our gas. Once I found out what damage can happen when using gas with alcohol in it, I switched to no ethanol gas. I really think it was to late but I struggled with that engine for around 5 years when I finally admitted that the carb was shot from the use it went through with ethanol adulturated gas. OK. I ordered a new carb that cost $87 pluse $10 shipping and installed the new carb. The motor ran like a new one. I’m back in business.
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Rick Gustoff
on November 13, 2014 at 11:20 amI to change oil before storage and wash/clean entire unit put battery
minder on rider but I never have drained or run dry a unit with gas
instead I top off tank add fuel stabilizer to tank and run about 10 minutes and put away in spring all units start right up never have had
a problem
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Mike
on November 13, 2014 at 6:11 pmI’ve been storing equipment for over 40 years by just adding a little Stabil. That worked great…until ethanol came along. Even ethanol fuel with stabil will cause problems. I tried draining, adding every type of stabilizer, etc. and still problems. Now, I use marine fuel (ethanol free) and a little seafoam in it. Zero problems. And never run a piece of equipment dry if it has a diaphram carb. The diaphrams will dry out and become brittle and crack, causing more problems.
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Murray Dixon
on November 11, 2015 at 11:28 pmI don’t run them dry, I just tip them over and drain out the gas. That is maybe why I haven’t had a problem in my 45 years of lawn mowing.
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Phil
on November 13, 2014 at 11:42 pmWatch out for water in the fuel. Settles in the float bowl, as mentioned above pull and clean the float bowl and the float.
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J Cloutier
on May 6, 2015 at 2:16 pmAwesome tips and ways to keep your lawn mower looking and performing like new!
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Jim
on May 9, 2015 at 7:55 amMAINE WINTERS,All I do is run the marine stable on the heavier side I think 1oz to 5 gal all year long and run full synthetic oil in all my equipment for better flow in cold.In my gravely with Kawasaki motor the manual says 10w40 full synthetic is ok to like 0° or less so I fire it up every two weeks in unheated garage and never have any issues at all.Although I have debated rather two weeks is stretching it for possible rust build up internaly. I probably will switch to weekly start ups!
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Ralph E.Wycoff
on June 5, 2015 at 8:42 amThanks for your informative post that you’ve shared on this site. I’m going to follow your helpful tips for my beloved garden.
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Rob V. Robertson Austin, TX
on July 22, 2015 at 8:00 pmPosted July 22, 2015. My new Sears Crafstman 22″ front drive came with electric start button. A buddy tells me that summer storage in hot garage degrades the battery fast. Is that true?
By the way, the new mower pulls me fast. Not sure if I can figure out how to slow it down a bit. Yes, will check manual again.
By the way, the owner manual is poorly done. It should have assembly and start up steps at the very start of the booklet. No, the material is buried inside.
Thanks in advance.
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Jose Santos
on November 11, 2015 at 11:29 am5.) NOT Reading the Owner’s Manual, I think must be the number 1.)
The eternal battle between suppliers and customers, the war that never ending of excuses: he told me, I think, I believe, I guess, I did it (but when is questioned doesnt know), I always did like this and this is the first time that happen, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc x 10^-24
Just, read the owner manual and you will keep your best buy and your guarantee. Greetings =D
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Mark T
on November 11, 2015 at 11:41 amWho has 2 cycle trimmer or blowers? I fill my walk behinds with mixed fuel late in the season for 2 reasons – use up the 2 cycle to keep a fresh rotation and the oil mixed in the fuel keeps it stabilized while adding some critical upper cylinder lubrication for storage.
Don’t neglect your cans either! If plastic, empty them – dump regular fuel in your truck or something. Metal cans, treat with Sta-bil and fill full. Condensation will cause water formation unless the can is full. Same is true for metal fuel tanks – if you’re not draining it, fill it full with stabilized fuel.
22 yr old Lawnboy – first pull start every spring. 9HP Briggs at 12 yrs old is a 2 pull start. Hard to beat that.
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John
on November 11, 2015 at 12:30 pmI know this is about winter storage but how about the air filter. Does any one clean in fall to be ready for spring?
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John Cizmar
on November 11, 2015 at 12:34 pmVP (the racing fuel people) make small equipment fuel without ethanol. Home Depot in the Chicago area sells it. It is also available pre-mixed for 2-cycle equipment.
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Paul W.Waren
on November 11, 2015 at 12:47 pmI run Tru-Fuel in my last tank of the season. It will retain its integrity up to two years in an engine (up to five years in original, UNOPENED container). I also clean carb with carb cleaner, compressed air, and run carb through ultrasonic cleaner, then dry with compressed air again. I change oil and put piston at top-dead center to close valves. I also clean entire mower. I make certain engine cooling fins are free of debris, remove and clean wheels and axles, inspect blade, and lubricate all cables. Never have had a problem.
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Ronald Alan Myers
on November 12, 2017 at 7:00 pmPaul . . . what kind of cleaner/chemicals do you use in your ultrasonic cleaner for the carburetors ? I’ve got 5 carbs that need to be torn down and cleaned.
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Ken
on November 11, 2015 at 1:03 pmA few of you recommend the use of ethanol-free gasoline for winter storage. The only ethanol-free gasoline I have been able to locate near me is 92 octane. All of my small engines call for 87 octane.
What’s more important: winterizing with ethanol-free gasoline, or winterizing with gasoline that has the correct octane but contains ethanol?
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TerryH
on November 8, 2016 at 12:32 pm92-Octane is better for your small engine than 87, and most MFR now recommend 89 or higher
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Pete
on November 11, 2015 at 1:07 pmThe only stabilizer to use in ethanol gas is the ETHANOL SHIELD from
B3C Fuel Solutions. None of the others address the phase seperation
(water and ethanol combining and sinking to the bottom)
My Troybilt tiller sat in the shed for 2 1/2 years with fuel in it and
started on the second pull. When I buy fuel I treat the gas can then it is ready for any thing I use it in.Works great in 2 cycle and my antique
car also.
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Steve
on November 11, 2015 at 1:27 pmI always mix 1 oz racing Castor Oil (Klotz Benol) per gallon of gas. I’ve done this for years, and my 37 year old B&S snowblower starts every time on the first pull. Use it in my riding mower and push mower also. Run out the gas, change the synthetic oil and filter(s) and squirt mystery oil in the plug hole and turn it over a few times. That’s it, and virtually no engine wear. IT works.
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Murray Dixon
on November 11, 2015 at 11:25 pmI have never used stabilizer in the 45 years I’ve owned lawn mowers. I just tip them over to drain out the gas and put them in the lawn shed. I had two twenty year old lawn mowers that hadn’t been started for several years, filled them completely full with fresh gas, and they started right up. So I sold them and moved into a condo!
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David's Small Motors Alabama
on November 12, 2015 at 11:03 amThese are great comments and good advise all the way down. Ethanol gas is a disease to our fuel consumption. It sucks the moisture out of the air and makes water in our fuel systems. As we, here in Alabama experience one of the most humid areas in the states, it is even worse. Ethanol (i’ve read a lot about it) has a maximum of 30 days shelf life. So be mindful of how big a purchase you make at 1 time, make sure it will be used before 30 days. Adding new fuel on top of old fuel doesn’t make the old fuel new again.Ethanol Shield is a good additive to put in jugs/cans as an extra preventative. Also fuel treatment is good too, even though it is 98% alcohol, it will mix with the water and burn through the combustion cycle.
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TerryH
on November 8, 2016 at 12:36 pm“sucks the moisture out of the air…” is great wording, and it amazes me how many do not even think about that when they rip the spring loaded valves off their 1-gal or 5-gal containers.
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Mark Selbert
on November 9, 2016 at 8:42 pmIts best to get a tune up/ oil change sharpen blade etc now in November VS March or April???
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Turner Anderson
on November 10, 2016 at 9:56 amI typically do an end of season tune-up so I don’t have old oil, fuel, and banged up parts to deal with come spring time.
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Dean Calloway
on November 13, 2015 at 8:40 pmHere are my thoughts on this. I use a fuel additive STA-Bil in every tank of fuel. I also add Marvel Mistry Oil 2 times a year. I also use Opimal 2 which is a 2 cycle engine lubricant.
I have a Troy Bilt 12 HP riding mower 1992 with 750/Hrs. I have a Still weed trimmer 2006, Still blower M-55, Still chain saw 2013.
I never drain the gas from any of my machines. Also note the my mowing season starts in March and ends in December.
I also bring the units out about once a month start em up let each one run about 15 min. Even if you live in a cold climate I think you could do this.
I have never had an engine issue using my system. Even if you do not try this. I will stick to the my way.
Here is a list of the equipment that I own.
Troy-Bilt 12/HP purchased 1992 Riding mower 750hrs still running
Still trimmer year purchased 2000.
Still blower tear purchased 2006
Still chain saw year purchased 2010.
My first push mower was a 3.5 HP Murray it cost $30.00 in 1965 I kept the mower until 1995 rebuild carburetor and new wheels. Sold mower for $35.00.
I will keep to the way I am doing. I hope some of the info helps you.
Dean
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Winter's coming: Vehicle storage options from lawn mowers to RVs - Uncle Bob's ResourcesRich
on May 2, 2016 at 4:01 pmWhat ruins a small engine:
Simple: Moist air in the cylinder, moisture between valves and valve seats, (as is advised for calipers and micrometers, do not store with metal surfaces touching…same probably goes for valves and valve seats) Water, Water Vapor, Molecular water in fuel, liquid water in fuel, acid, acidic oil ( motor oil becomes acidic as it is used in an engine), mice, rats.
Oil holds water, gas holds water, crankcases hold water. Float bowls hold water, fuel lines and filters hold water. Is there a common thread here?
Dump the oil…dump the gas…drain the float bowl, lines, and filters, put Blue Brillo pads in an around wire harneses for garden tractors to keep mice away. Moth balls don’t do anything…they play with them. Squirt oil in the cylinder…put anti seize on the spark plug threads and TORQUE them at the LOW END of the Torque specification. They only have a few SOFT aluminum threads in the head and remember it is not critical to CRANK in the spark plug since it is not an airplane or a car…its just a lawn mower. Good Luck!
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David Tucker
on August 25, 2016 at 7:17 pmI don’t have a garage/shed will the cold weather hurt the engine of a riding mower?
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Turner Anderson
on August 29, 2016 at 12:51 pmClean out the carburetor, and run some fuel stabilizer mixed with gas through the engine for a few minutes. One of the biggest issues people have during winter is letting old stale fuel sit in the gas tank and remnants in the carburetor. It will slowly eat away at the fuel system components. Also you could throw a cover over your mower to protect it from moisture. Otherwise the cold weather shouldn’t hurt your engine.
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Joe Polvino
on November 8, 2016 at 11:49 amI must be going overboard with my Cub Cadet 1046KW!
My fuel strategy is to run the engine with stabilized ethanol-free gas, then store it topped off so there is minimal air space. I also cup-brush and sharpen the blades, and give them a coating of lightweight oil. Pressure wash deck top and bottom, grease zerks. Change oil, oil filter, air filter. Last run gets a fogging treatment. Store battery in basement on a shelf, charge it once or twice at 2A.
Never had a problem starting in the spring. Best of all, it is 99% ready to go when I use it for the first time, just confirm oil level and top off tire air pressure.
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Tim Kavanaugh
on November 8, 2016 at 2:40 pmI respect the recommendation of the manufacturers regarding winterizing (or summarizing) small engines. Unfortunately, I have not had success with those practices. Early on, the couple time, when I drained fuel from tanks and carburetors I experienced significant start up problems. It seemed when drained, particulate, such as dust, that finds its way to the carburetor would dry and crust up necessitating removal and cleaning of the carb internals. For years, I simply add fuel stablizer, fill the tank and put it away without changing the oil. I have never had an problem starting my equipment at the season start. I do not change the oil until the start of the new season as I am concerned with condensation build up during the off-season. My equipment includes a 1979 Ariens snow blower, 1984 John Deere lawn tractor, 1999 Cummins generator, 1974 Homelite chain saw, all of which I purchased new. A case in point, one time I drained the gasoline from my generator. It was drained for about 2 months when we had a power outage. I filled the tank with gas, primed the carburetor and the engine would not start. In the dark, I removed the carburetor and found dry flaky material was preventing the float from seating. I cleaned and reinstalled the carb and the engine started at the touch of the start button. I never again drained the carborator. Sorry for this long winded comment, but I firmly believe my methodology over the hears has lead to substantial reliability of my equipment.
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J
on November 8, 2016 at 8:21 pmLiving in Iowa trying to find non ethenol is hard plus finding quality gas sucks even no ethenol is marginal at best. With living on a farm corn/beans we are not ethenol fans but that’s who buys it adm .we spend the extra 50-70 cents difference no ethenol. With most small engins ethenol is poison.for long storage 4-5 months run stabil until dry I drop maybe a cap full or less of 2cy on top cylinder turn over put plug on ready to go I have never had major problems.23hp kaw . Husqvarna . chainsaw,trimers,roto,leaf.number atvs.good luck
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Christopher
on November 9, 2016 at 12:35 amChanging the oil & getting the gas out of the tank is key. I put some Stabil in the empty tank with a little Lucas Fuel conditioner & let mower run for 10 seconds. Sold off my 2 old Craftsman mowers 3 yrs ago, they were both almost 16 yrs old, bought a new Craftsman mower with a 6.5hp B & S, been running great & much better mpg then the previous older Craftsman mowers with smaller H.P. engines. Regular synthetic oil changes, clean & gap plugs, clean air filters, power wash mower 2x a year & clean before putting away keep deck clear of rust. I treat my Craftsman snowblower the same, and get many great years out of my property maintenance toys. Ethanol free gas is also worth the drive to whatever stations or marina sells it nearest you. My 2-cycle trimmers & blowers last longer then 3-4 yrs using ethanol-free gas with Lucas Fuel treatment. A 5 gallon gas tank for lawn toys lasts me the summer, Lucas Fuel treatment really provides better gas mpg. Sorry for the war & peace commentary.
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Bob Penoyer
on November 10, 2016 at 8:00 amMy Toro Zero-Turn Mower, is stored in a shed that is some distance for our house, with out electricty. I have a small Solar panel, from Harbor Freight, that keeps the battery charged all the time. No big cost, the battery lasts for ever! I use a 4 prong trailer lighting plug for this setup, just unplug to go mowing, plug her back in for storage! keep it simple people
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Nevada Stanley
on June 28, 2017 at 5:58 amIs my lawn mower ruined because it was placed up right& oil drained through it somehow…
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karl kleinberg
on November 11, 2017 at 11:29 amI own & operate a country airport.We run aviation fuel in our mower & other equipment the last run of the season.You can buy a few gallons of 100LL Avgas(NOT Jet-A!)from your local airport fuel supplier. Our engines run great on this fuel & you can leave it in the mower all winter with no problems!
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Ron Snyder
on November 11, 2017 at 4:06 pmI have been working with and on mowers for a long time and I never drain or run the mower out of gas for storage.By doing that it does a lot of harm to any of the rubber seals or or rubber or plastic seats. If you use a good grade fuel additive you have nothing to worry about. As far as the battery is concerned if you put a layer of grease on the battery terminals and connectors you can leave the battery connected it whole life span.
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ray
on November 11, 2017 at 8:12 pmyou are all wrong never drain gas simply start on descent day a bit we get a few ….i do snowblowers all summer.. fill tank full startron cover with plastic under cap… ty..
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Roger Dunn
on November 12, 2017 at 9:55 amSo is it best to change the oil in your lawn mower at the end of the season or just change in early spring? And why is that best?
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Eric Naibert
on November 22, 2019 at 1:34 pmLeave your choke closed on snowblowers during the off season to prevent mice and other small critters from building nests or stockpiling food in your carburetor or intake manifold.
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Scott Tucker
on November 22, 2019 at 3:29 pmExcellent advise about the engine. But what about the deck! I pressure wash all my decks, including 3pt finish mower then coat with Fluid Film. Although this year I’m trying Woolwax. Seems to be the latest corrosion proof material out there. Take care of the deck and it will last a long time. Hint: don’t get it on the belts.
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BobbyC
on November 22, 2019 at 7:33 pmMost mowers and other pieces of power equipment are not set up for easy winterizing. Most mowers lack fuel shut off valves and carburetor drain valves. Hand held equipment can be easily turned upside down to drain the gasoline, but this is not the case with larger equipment. Honda is one of the few manufacturers that include fuel shut off valves and easy to drain carburetor bowls. If for some reason, you cannot properly winterize your mower, snowblower, generator or other piece of seasonal power equipment, another alternative is to add stabilizer, keep the tank full and start it every few weeks throughout the off season.
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Audrey
on April 11, 2020 at 12:37 amIT is very serious issue, you are describe of the lawn mower basically gas lawn mower. Thank you for the post.
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